Written 2022, updated 24/02/2026

Natural habitat and enclosure design- 

Madagascar is a large and varied island with tropical and dry forests, grassland and coastal habitats. The Lesser Tenrec is primarily found in the dry forests and savannas in the south of the island. These areas are generally well covered, with plenty of trees, branches and plants, within which tenrecs will seek refuge. In some areas of Madagascar, humans are causing huge levels of destruction to natural habitats, and tenrecs are having to adapt. 

Tenrecs split their time between the ground and the trees but tend to prefer the arboreal lifestyle. This gives us a good foundation on how our enclosures should be constructed. Height is greatly important, and the space should offer plenty of dynamic climbing opportunities and raised structures. There are three main enclosure types used by keepers. These are: 

• Wooden vivariums: they are readily available and used frequently for housing Tenrecs. A wooden vivarium has several advantages, from providing a secure environment to reducing heat transfer out of the enclosure. Some wooden vivariums may need additional treatment to make them better suited to high humidity environments. A vivarium of at least 4 feet in length should be used, providing plenty of space for night-time antics and feeding. As Tenrecs are very capable climbers, the height of the enclosure should account for this, and I would never opt for anything below 45cm (around 18 inches) in height, but taller is preferred.

• Glass terrariums: terrariums such as the front-opening designs made by Exo Terra, are common options for housing a Tenrec. This does somewhat limit the keeper to certain enclosure sizes, but it can be an effortless way to provide much needed height. The Exo Terra 90x45x90cm (LxWxH) is an ideal candidate. Things to bear in mind with glass enclosures is that they are more fragile, are less effective than wooden housing at holding heat, and have high levels of light penetration. 

• Conventional barred cages: less commonly used, but still occasionally seen is a barred cage, like you might use to house a gerbil or guinea pig. Whilst these can be much larger than alternative housing methods, they have several drawbacks. These include the risk of injury when climbing the bars, and the difficulty to maintain an effective ambient temperature in what is essentially an open space. As a result, I would not recommend this enclosure type for Lesser Tenrecs. 

Once a suitable enclosure has been sourced, attention can turn to the design of the interior to promote normal behaviours and create a naturalistic habitat. Climbing opportunities can be offered using various wood and branches. Good options include cork rounds and grape vines. Many variations of these products are available in exotic pet shops, yet scavenged natural wood can also be used after being disinfected. Creating rest areas or tree hollows off the ground is greatly important, as it is here that tenrecs will prefer to spend most of their days sleeping, and feel most comfortable. Ground-level hides can be offered but these will rarely be used in preference of the safety of the ‘trees’- a behaviour that helps them to survive against Madagascar's predators. I would always recommend trying to create the most accurate representation of the wild possible by using reference photos from nature. A great resource for this is iNaturalist, which I commonly use myself when designing new habitats. To add additional interest for your tenrec, consider using pet-safe plants. In my own enclosures I’ve combined natural branching with grasses and other plants, which encourages investigatory behaviour and offers a more dynamic, changing habitat for natural enrichment. This is also a more visually appealing display for the keeper.

The choice of substrate is also important. Many keepers opt for commercial floor coverings, such as those used in domestic rodent enclosures. Whilst these can be easy to clean, they are not very natural and often do not represent the types of substrate wild tenrecs would come across well. A mix of arid soil mix and sand creates an ideal sub-base to build from, and this can even be made into a semi-bioactive setup. Having an area of sand (such as desert sand or rodent sand) is important as it is this that Lesser Tenrecs will use to wash. I have integrated an area of sand beneath the hot spot, separated from the rest of the substrate by a small line of pebbles. Your chosen substrate should also be able to retain a level of humidity.

Environmental conditions- 

The dry forests and savannas of southern Madagascar are warm year-round, with some seasonal change. Replicating this change throughout the year through control of heating and lighting can be beneficial in promoting natural cycles, such as torpor (see ‘wild behaviour and enrichment’) and breeding. 

Tenrecs benefit from temperatures above typical room temperature both day and night, so a heat source should not emit light to prevent interference with natural circadian rhythms. If you wish to utilise a light-emitting heat source, a secondary heating method should be used at night. At one end of the enclosure a heat source should be provided- I would recommend a Ceramic Heat Emitter (CHE). These are long-lasting and emit a large quantity of infrared radiation without visible light. This will increase ambient air temperatures and provide a gradient across the enclosure. Whilst tenrecs are mammals and can control their own core temperature, this gradient is still important to offer the animal choice and control and prevent overheating. Overheating will also be prevented by a thermostat. All heating elements should be thermostatically controlled and set to maintain an ambient temperature of at least 22 degrees Celsius, increasing directly under the heat source. As mentioned above, temperature parameters vary in southern Madagascar seasonally, ranging from daytime winter averages in the mid 20s, to summer highs of late 20s, up to 30. Nighttime temperatures fall to approximately 17 degrees Celsius during winter and 24 degrees Celsius in summer. This also coincides with changes in humidity levels and day length. During the cooler months, reduce the humidity levels to 40-50% to simulate the dry season, and shorten the photoperiod of any lighting to mimic the shorter day length (around 11 hours). Summer is the wet season, when temperatures climb and humidity levels are-on average- higher at 60-80%, with day length increasing to a maximum of almost 14 hours. A simple plug-in timer can be used to control lighting. 

There are no specific lighting requirements for tenrecs, however creating a natural daylight cycle is recommended. LED lighting is commonly used to achieve this; however, some keepers opt for UVB lighting, or even both to mimic the sun’s full spectrum. Whilst UVB lighting may not be a requirement, there is research to suggest that mammals can benefit from controlled exposure to ultraviolet light in captivity. Since introducing UVB lighting to my own enclosure, activity levels and overall health have increased, and I would recommend its use. Only a small level- a 7% UVB tube- is needed as tenrecs are mostly nocturnal and will have limited exposure. The Arcadia ShadeDweller T5 is my go-to product, but others are also available and just as effective. Many zoological collections now offer their tenrecs- and other mammals- UVB lighting.

Diet and captive feeding- 

Wild Lesser Tenrecs are omnivorous, meaning they will consume both plant and animal matter. They show a strong preference for invertebrates, which make up a significant portion of their wild diet, but they will also predate occasionally on vertebrates, such as other small mammals and small birds. They will also consume limited quantities of fruit. 

Thankfully, this diet is easily replicated in captivity, and keepers should be prepared to feed live invertebrate prey. Throughout much of the year, tenrecs will eat daily. Protein sources are always a favourite, but a varied and balanced diet is important. You can offer: 

• Live invertebrates (dubia roaches, crickets, locusts, mealworms, waxworms, calciworms, etc.) 

• Commercial diets (a small bowl of high-protein kitten biscuits is provided to my tenrec ad-lib) 

• Egg (I usually offer egg scrambled, with or without shell) 

• Fruits and vegetables (some tenrecs are picky, but can be offered a wide variety, including carrot and banana) 

All live food offered should be gut-loaded to ensure it is nutritious and dusted in a supplement. I switch between a multivitamin and a calcium/D3 supplement with each feed, which helps to prevent nutritional deficiencies. 

A shallow bowl of fresh drinking water must always be accessible. Place this at the far end of the enclosure, away from heat sources, to prevent it from drying out too quickly. Check daily and refill and replenish when necessary. 

Wild behaviour and enrichment- 

Lesser Tenrecs are nocturnal, meaning they are mostly active at night. As a result, it is recommended to situate your tenrec’s enclosure out of the way of high-traffic areas. This ensures that its natural activity patterns will not be impacted by diurnal activity in the home. It is also sensible to complete as much of your tenrec’s husbandry in the early morning or late evening as possible. For instance, providing a scatter feed of live invertebrates in the late evening will allow your tenrec to spend much of its night foraging, just as it would in the wild. 

Besides when breeding, tenrecs typically live alone, and it is best to house individuals apart from one another in captivity to prevent stress, fighting, and injury. 

If you wish to handle your Lesser Tenrec, it is also best to do this when they are naturally most active. Generally, tenrecs are docile creatures, especially when handled from a young age, but care should be taken with their spines and sharp, insect-crunching teeth. 

Wild tenrecs will naturally enter a state known as torpor when temperatures and food availability decrease in winter months. During this much drier time of year, Tenrecs enter this state to help conserve energy. It is like hibernation; however, the animal tends to wake more frequently, simply becoming less active and waking only for essential activities such as feeding and drinking. Breeding individuals should be allowed to enter torpor to trigger breeding in the new year. Replicating seasonal changes, as discussed previously, will encourage this natural cycle. 

Enrichment for tenrecs is incredibly easy. If a naturalistic environment has been created, much of the work has already been done, however the introduction of novel objects and scents can encourage further investigation. Even something as simple as moving a feature in the enclosure, such as a branch, can promote different behaviours and create interest. Prolonging feeding time is also an easy way to encourage normal activity levels and can be as simple as scattering food around the habitat. The more clutter in the enclosure, the harder, and more enriching, it will be. 

Health and disease prevention- 

A daily visual health check is important to ensure your tenrec is well. Take a good look at all the parts of the body and note any changes. If ever you are concerned by a change in your animal’s body or behaviour, consult your specialist exotic vet immediately. 

Something many keepers become concerned about is puffy white discharge from around the eyes. Whilst any abnormal discharge would be a cause for concern, this is in fact totally natural. Often you may note this discharge when there is a change in the tenrec’s environment- this is because the secretion is thought to be used as a form of scent marking. 

Common signs of ill health can include:  

• Lethargy* 

• Loss of appetite* 

• Unusual faeces  

• Reduced/increase defecation or urination  

• Abnormal discharge  

• Dull, sunken eyes  

• Unusual, rapid, slow, or loud breathing  

• Red, sore skin  

• Excessive itching  

• Self-mutilation 

*These changes in behaviour are also likely to occur during the natural torpor process.