Written 2021, updated 24/02/2026

Species profile:
Species: African Lined Mantis
Scientific name: Sphodromantis lineola
Range: Central and Western sub-Saharan Africa
Lifespan: Less than a year (captivity)
Description: African Lined Mantises are a medium/large mantis species, reaching around 8cm in length. Individuals can vary in appearance, with most being a vibrant green, and some a tan, brown colour. At the front of their body is a pair of long, toothed legs, used as the mantises most deadly weapons, allowing them to strike accurately at potential prey, which is then devoured with their powerful bite. Following their final moult, they develop a set of impressive functional wings with eye-like markings used to confuse potential threats. Before they reach maturity, it is possible to distinguish the sexes by counting the segments on their abdomen. Females have just 6 (including a larger last segment), whilst males have 8. As adults, females are also typically bigger than males, with an otherwise similar appearance.
Behaviour: Diurnal (primarily active during the day)
Difficulty of care: Easy

Natural habitat and enclosure design- 

Mantis species can be found in several different habitat types across the world, and each has specially adapted to its own environmental niche. Therefore, what works for one mantis in captivity may not work for another. The African Lined Mantis originates from the forests and savanna thickets of Central and Western sub-Saharan Africa. 

The natural habitat of this mantis is hot and generally slightly drier than that of other mantises. Due to its wide range across the middle of Africa, it inhabits a small number of habitat types, however each include plenty of plants and branches. 

As an arboreal species, the enclosure must allow the mantis to climb, whilst also offering enough height for the animal to hang from branches or the tank’s roof when it comes to moult. As a result, the height of the enclosure is the most important dimension, with most keepers recommending a minimum height of 3 times the mantises body length. Of course, this is just a minimum, and larger enclosures are always preferred. An enclosure no smaller than 30cm tall, 30cm wide, and 30cm deep should be considered. A glass tank- such as a front-opening terrarium- is a great option for housing mantises due to their ability to withstand heat and humidity, and their built-in ventilation to aid air flow. 

The design of the tank itself can then be as basic or complex as the keeper desires. A variety of twigs and branches should be placed across the tank to provide plenty of opportunities for their arboreal antics- it is also up off the floor they will hunt. Cover should then be offered to allow the African Lined Mantis to use its exceptional natural camouflage, which helps it to disappear among foliage, grasses, and branches to ambush prey. This can utilise real plants or fake foliage. Fake foliage is easier to manage, especially in a smaller enclosure, however there are several benefits to live plants, such as helping to maintain humidity levels, and being more visually pleasing for the keeper. Whilst clutter and cover is important for the mantis to feel secure, an area should be left more open: this will allow the mantis to moult successfully without interference from enclosure furnishings. 

The type of substrate used in a mantis tank is not of great importance, provided it is able to hold a level humidity. For ease of husbandry some mantis keepers will use sheets of damp paper towel, however although effective, this looks unnatural. I would recommend opting for a layer of soil mix, or a more arid substrate, dependent upon the area of the species’ range you intend to recreate. Bear in mind that a thick layer of substrate will reduce the overall height of the space available for the mantis.

Environmental conditions- 

The environmental conditions within the enclosure should replicate this the species’ natural environment as closely as possible. Whilst the heating and lighting requirements of invertebrates are far less complex than those of reptiles, it is still important to get things right. 

An ambient air temperature of 20-25 degrees Celsius should be maintained throughout the day, with this being allowed to drop down to room temperature overnight. Temperatures in their native range can easily reach- or exceed- 30 degrees Celsius, so occasional high temperatures will not cause harm. The ambient temperatures can easily be achieved by placing a small heat mat either beneath or on the side of the tank and controlling it using a thermostat and timer. Care should be taken to ensure temperatures remain within a safe range- for this I would recommend installing a digital thermometer. 

There are no specific lighting requirements for African Lined Mantises, and they can simply be kept in natural daylight (out of the way of direct sunlight and draughts). Providing a natural photoperiod through artificial daylight lighting could, however, be beneficial. A timer can be used to create a 12 hours on/12 hours off cycle. 

The final environmental parameter to control is humidity. A level of humidity is important to keep all mantises healthy, and will aid the process of moulting, which mantises use to grow. Care should be taken to provide a humidity between 50-60%, which can be controlled simply by occasional misting of the tank, taking care not to directly spray the animal. Monitoring levels with a digital hydrometer is recommended as this will inform keepers if additional misting is required, or if levels get too high. If you believe your mantis is preparing to moult, a slight increase in humidity will help the process run smoothly. 

Diet and captive feeding- 

Mantises are predatory insects, primarily hunting other invertebrates. Their wild diet often consists of prey such as grasshoppers, crickets, and other insects. A high-protein, low-fat diet is of vital importance, and this can be provided through a variety of live food species in captivity. The most commonly fed are: 

  • Fruit flies 
  • Flies 
  • Crickets 
  • Locusts 

The size of the prey offered will depend on the life stage and sex of your individual mantis. Young nymphs should be fed daily on small prey, such as fruit flies, whilst adults can eat larger items slightly less frequently. Care should be taken not to overfeed or underfeed your mantis by carefully monitoring the size of its abdomen. In adult females, swelling of the abdomen could also indicate that she is preparing to lay an egg sack, and food should still be offered. 

Excess food should be removed from the enclosure to prevent live invert prey from causing harm to your mantis. To maintain a clean environment and reduce disease risk, any half-eaten prey should also be cleared. 

Much of the water needed by mantises comes from their diet, however they will also drink water droplets from the leaves following rain. This is simulated in captivity by regular misting of the enclosure. Do not provide water bowls or other open water sources for mantises as these will be more of a risk than a benefit and could cause humidity levels to get too high. 

Wild behaviour and enrichment- 

Mantises are a solitary animal, only coming together for breeding. All mantises- especially the much larger females- are known to be cannibalistic, even during the mating process. Therefore, mantises should always be housed alone. If you intend to breed your mantises, the introduction must be carried out very carefully and monitored closely. Even still there is always a risk of death. 

Provided with opportunities to hunt, climb, and hide, there is little need to do anything else for your mantis. To encourage exploratory behaviour in the tank, some furnishings (such as plants or branches) could be occasionally repositioned, but care should be taken not to cause unnecessary stress to the mantis. 

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