Written 2023, updated 24/02/2026

Natural habitat and enclosure design- 

The exact habitat and requirements will depend entirely upon the exact species you intend to house. Note that this is a general guide, and further research is recommended into the needs of your species. In captivity isopods often cohabit with reptiles, amphibians, and other invertebrates as part of a bioactive setup. This is the primary reason for their surge in popularity in recent years, as bioactive enclosures have become more common in main-stream exotic pet care. 

Isopods will appreciate clutter. Most species seek shelter beneath rocks, leaves, and wood, which can also offer a steady supply of food. An enclosure should have a deep layer of substrate with plenty of rock, bark, leaf litter, and artificial hides. Even when kept as part of a larger bioactive display, isopods need these refuges to escape predation and reproduce for the colony to survive. For isopod-only setups, placing them in a dark area will also help make them feel more comfortable, and replicate how they spend their days beneath rocks and branches. 

If housing isopods away from other species, their enclosures can be very basic. It must be of adequate size, have ventilation, and be secure. Ideal options are ice cream tubs, Tupperware containers, BraPlast tubs, faunariums and really useful boxes. Some work may be required to make these suitable for housing animals, such as the addition of more ventilation (this can be as simple as punching or drilling a few small holes into the sides and roof, being careful not to create opportunities for escape). 

Environmental conditions- 

This will again depend upon the exact species being housed. Some isopods will thrive at room temperature; however, many are adapted to hot, dry climates, or tropical rainforests. In my experience, many species benefit from a bit of extra heat, and colonies are often much more successful. If additional heating is required, a simple heat mat situated beneath part of the setup should be sufficient and can be monitored with a digital thermometer. All heating should be controlled by a thermostat for safety. 

Humidity can be controlled through regular enclosure misting and appropriate ventilation. Exact humidity requirements will vary from species to species, yet all will benefit from a gradient within the enclosure, and small pockets of higher humidity beneath enclosure features. Small amounts of a product such as sphagnum moss can be used to achieve this. 

No specific lighting is needed, and most species are considered nocturnal, meaning they are primarily active at night. 

Diet and captive feeding- 

Isopods are what is known as a detritivore. This means they feed upon debris and detritus, such as decaying plants and animals. It is for this reason they are used in bioactive setups, where they act as tiny recycling machines, turning waste into nutrients for plants, and allowing the natural cycle to continue, just as it would in the wild. 

As enclosure features such as bark and leaf litter decay, the isopods will feed on it. It is recommended to supplement their diet with other items too, especially additional protein to support growth and breeding. Commercial mixes are available to feed isopods, but you can also offer: 

• Vegetables and leafy greens 

• Dead bugs (often surplus from live food for other species) 

• Diet mixes such as Repashy 

• Fish flake 

A note on bioactive setups- 

When creating a bioactive enclosure, isopods are commonly used as part of the ‘clean-up crew’. The species you select should be carefully planned to ensure it is suited to the environmental conditions of your enclosure. Many of the species commonly available to keepers are well-suited to the wetter, tropical enclosures, however some will be able to cope with the drier conditions of arid enclosures, especially when humidity pockets are supplied. Do not purchase any animals until you can be sure you can offer the correct conditions and support their welfare.