In the wild-
The Phantasmal Poison Dart Frog (Epipedobates anthonyi) is a small species of dart frog native to the forest floors of Ecuador, where they inhabit a small range of less than 200 square miles. Due to the threats faced by their natural habitat- many resultants of human activity in the area- the IUCN consider this species as ‘Near Threatened’.
Despite their potent poison being as much as 200 times the strength of the painkiller Morphine, these frogs are practically harmless in captivity. This is because wild frogs supplement their diet with food sources which allow them to produce the toxin, which, luckily for us, cannot be made from a captive diet of fruit flies and micro crickets!
The species can also be split into two sub-species, and then further into localities too. We keep Epipedobates anthonyi Santa Isabel, however Epipedobates tricolor is also commonly available. The two species can interbreed, so I would recommend keeping each separately.
What do they look like?
Often considered a ‘thumbnail’ species, the Phantasmal Poison Dart Frog rarely grows to larger than 2cm from its snout to its vent. What they lack in size they make up for in colour and personality: they have thick lines of yellow or murky white running down their bodies, which are covered in a deep red. This colour continues down the legs, which are peppered with yellowish spots. They have small, jet-black eyes which sit on the sides of the head. Whilst we may consider the vibrant colours seen across the dart frog species as a form of beauty, the real purpose is to provide a warning to nearby predators. This is known as aposematism. In the wild, some non-toxic species adapt to look like these dangerous creatures to avoid predation- a familiar example of this is hoverflies, which have evolved to look similar to wasps.
Suitability-
Their small size, high activity, and ease of care makes this species hugely popular. They require less space than other dart frog species, and breed well too, which can make a rewarding project. This species should also be kept in groups, meaning that there is always something interesting to watch in the tank, and keep the owner entertained. I would recommend Phantasmal Poison Dart Frogs to anyone looking to add amphibians to their collection.
Housing and the environment-
Phantasmal Poison Dart Frogs are primarily terrestrial, meaning they can be found on the ground. This means that when choosing your tank, think about the usable floor space more than the available height. For a group of up to 6 frogs, a 60cm wide by 45cm deep tank would be ideal. Bigger is almost always better when housing animals, so if space and budget allow, try to use a larger tank: for example, my breeding group of 4 frogs are housed in a 100x50x50cm tank!
Males will utilise high points in the enclosure when calling to attract a mate, so this should be considered in the design. I have also seen many of my females active at various levels in the enclosure, so maximising the available space both horizontally and vertically seems important in the design accommodation for this species.
Now you know the type of tank you need; you should consider the heating and lighting elements needed in the enclosure. Compared to other reptiles and amphibians, dart frogs prefer cooler temperatures, usually within the range of 18-25 degrees Celsius along the temperature gradient. Many keepers opt to heat the room their frogs are housed in, but this is often not suitable to those with scattered collections, or fewer animals. In this case, you will need to consider adding a source of supplementary heat, controlled by a thermostat to prevent overheating. One option is to attach a small heat mat to the side of the tank, which will increase the temperature at one end, allowing a natural temperature gradient to form. Additionally, you could also use a small heat lamp- also thermostatically controlled- to provide a basking spot, which I have seen used by dart frogs.
Often in summer months, dart frog enclosures can become too warm, and heat sources should be turned off when the temperature exceeds the frog’s comfort range.
Lighting is primarily used by dart frog keepers to stimulate natural cycles (such as their circadian rhythm and breeding) and promote plant growth in live-planted setups. Many opt for LEDs or daylight bulbs as UVB lighting is not essential to the health of dart frogs. We decided to change our daylight lighting to UVB and have seen a difference in the health and activity of the frogs, therefore, I would highly recommend others do the same. A low output UV bulb of around 7% will meet the minimal UVB needs of dart frogs. All heating and lighting should be controlled by a timer, with a cycle of approximately 12 hours on and 12 hours off. There are husbandry advancements suggesting that seasonal changes to this cycle and day length can be beneficial, and this is something I would recommend exploring. A quick look at easily accessible weather data for the species’ natural habitat will offer guidance on how to change parameters throughout the year.
When designing enclosures for tropical species, most keepers will opt for naturalistic or bioactive enclosures. Whilst both create a naturally themed and enriching environment, bioactive setups take the whole idea a step further, creating a functional ecosystem within a terrarium through the use of bioactive custodians. Getting the correct substrate is vital for a successful bioactive setup, and there are now several great commercially available options, such as the Biolife range by Prorep. A generous layer of this (in conjunction with a drainage layer and plenty of leaf litter) offers the ideal foundations to your setup.
Providing plenty of cover in the tank will make the frogs feel secure. Using planting, wood and leaf litter skilfully in the tank will provide a plethora of natural hiding spots, without the need for a single up-turned coconut hide! Cork bark, Mopani wood, manzanita wood and several others are all readily available and reptile and aquatics shops and make ideal features in the tank, offering opportunities for the frogs to climb, seek refuge and bask. The same shops will often stock a range of plants too. These should be safe for your setup, but it is always worth checking before using them with your frogs. Some frog favourites include climbing plants, bromeliads and mosses.
A small, shallow water dish- filled with frog safe water- should also be offered. This will give the males a place to bring and rear their young, whilst also providing an additional source of humidity. Dart frogs cannot really swim, so the water should not be too deep, and must have easy access in and out.
Humidity-
Found in tropical regions, these frogs experience high humidity ranges of between 80 and 100%. For the health of your dart frogs, it is vital to keep the tank’s humidity within this range. Ways of achieving this can include:
- Regularly spraying the tank with RO, mature or treated water to remove harmful substances such as chlorine
- The use of automatic misting and fogging systems to create a weather system in the tank
- Partially covering the lids of screen top terrariums to maintain more humidity
- Using live plants and mosses, which transpire, releasing water into the environment through their leaves
As an important environmental parameter, it is vital that humidity is correctly maintained and monitored- I would recommend the use of a digital hydrometer.
Diet and feeding-
As a small species, Phantasmal Poison Dart Frogs can only take small prey. They will take a variety of foods, including flightless fruit flies, micro crickets and bean weevils. Fruit flies are by far the most used food source, although it is sensible to have a backup food source just in case! Bean weevils can cause dart frogs to prolapse due to the high levels of chitin, and if you observe this I would recommend resorting back to your typical feeds. Springtails and isopods can also be fed, although in a healthy bioactive setup, they will already be present for your frogs.
As voracious feeders, this species will feed regularly- we usually feed three times each week. The foods should also be dusted with a calcium and multivitamin supplement. This can be a difficult task when suing such small food items, however adding a small number of the inverts into a tub and coating with a small pinch of supplement works well. We supplement each feed on a rotation of calcium and multivitamin; however, many keepers will opt to create their own supplementation schedule.
Cleaning-
The addition of clean-up crew (often made up of springtails and isopods) will help to keep on top of waste in the environment, only really leaving you the task of removing large amount of excess food and trimming back any live plants. A setup is not considered bioactive without the important bioactive custodians- it is these organisms which are able to help the ecosystem recycle products and waste.
When the clean-up crew breed successfully in the setup, they also provide an easy and natural food source for the frogs.
Sourcing your dart frogs-
As with any pet, you should always source captive bred individuals wherever possible. This allows you to guarantee their health and welfare, whilst ensuring the animals are already adapted to a captive life. In the UK, a great source for a variety of dart frogs is www.dartfrog.co.uk. This is the organisation I have used myself, and I have always received healthy individuals at a fair price. As a relatively common species in captivity due to their rapid breeding, these frogs tend to be available at much lower prices than other dart frogs- expect to pay between £20 and £30 per frog.
At the Menagerie-
We currently house a 1:3 breeding group at the menagerie in a huge bioactive setup, which they share with our Mourning Geckos. The tank is filled with plants and botanicals which help to create a natural feel and maintain the ideal environmental parameters. These guys were our first step into the amphibian world, and I would recommend them to anyone looking to start!
Thank you for reading my Phantasmal Poison Dart Frog care sheet and I hope you found it helpful and informative. Good luck with your new reptile!
This care sheet has been written through the combination of my own experiences (I will only write about species I have worked with) and the knowledge, experience, and recommendations of other keepers in the exotic-keeping community.